She’s got flavor

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She’s got flavor
Ha poses with one of her works – a peacock made from various kinds of vegetables.
Preserving and spreading the traditional cuisines of Vietnam’s former imperial capital isn’t easy, but Ton Nu Thi Ha is up to it.

A member of Vietnam’s last royal family, Ton Nu Thi Ha has mastered the secret recipes of royal Vietnamese dishes, garnering praise both at home and abroad.

Born and raised in the former imperial capital town of Hue, Ha’s family first taught her to cook when she was eight.

After becoming a chef in her own right, the family art became her calling and her business.

Hue’s royal cuisine is an intricate blend of exotic ingredients like bird’s nest and abalone as well as common foods.

According to historical records kept at Hue’s royal court, a grand banquet typically consisted of around 160 dishes, while a small one contained about 50 dishes.

Ha says that nutrition and food arrangement are the most important aspects of cooking royal dishes.

“Apart from healthy, colorful and well-presented dishes, Nguyen Dynasty meals are characterized by food sculptures of animals considered divine in Asia, including dragons, kylins, turtles, and phoenixes,” says Ha.

These creatures are considered symbols of health, longevity, strength, prosperity as well as happiness, she says, adding that its important to have a balance of taste, look, scent and health in each meal.

Preservation

Hue’s royal cuisine was nearly lost through the modernization of 21st century Vietnam, but people like Ha have been working not only to revive it but also to spread its unique flavors both throughout Vietnam and abroad.

Ha has lectured on Hue cuisine at several universities and institutions across Europe including EUHT Stpol University in Spain and Reims in Paris, France.

She was granted a “Master Culinary Artist” certificate by Spain’s University of Tourism and European Culinary and Spanish Academy in 2000.

After traveling the world bringing traditional Vietnamese flavor to more than 20 countries, Ha says she must remain original and maintain her creativity.

“Following the same recipe and ingredients every time is not enough to be considered a talent.

Experiences and creativity play an extremely crucial role in my work, helping me reach new culinary levels,” Ha revealed.

When she cooked in Dubai, Ha replaced grated pork with a cheese mixture as her diners did not eat pork.

But she kept up the authentic flavor of the dish so well that not even the most discerning gourmand noticed the difference.

As a member of Vietnam’s royal family, Ha is well aware of the importance of her role in maintaining and promoting Hue’s culinary arts both inside and outside Vietnam.

“I want to popularize our unique culinary tradition to gourmets around the globe so they can better understand our culture and history,” said Ha.

Ha’s restaurant, Tinh Gia Vien, is the first such establishment run by the royal family.

Visitors to the Hue eatery are served as kings and queens indulging in the real flavor of Vietnam.

The restaurant and Ha’s story were introduced in the travel book “Dragons on the roof – A year in Vietnam” published last year by British writer Carol Howland.

And what about after Ha retires?

“I’m blessed that my daughter wants to follow in my footsteps. Very few cooks realize the true value of royal dishes,” says Ha.

“I will teach her how to make our royal authentic flavor live forever. I hope she’ll become a culinary ambassador and export our culture to all those interested.”

Reported by Thuy Trinh

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