Cuisine artisan’s untold story

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Cuisine artisan’s untold story
Nguyen Thi Xiem (L) makes banh xeo, one of the Vietnamese traditional dishes that earned her the first prize at the Smithsonian Folk-life Festival held last year in the US
Thanh Nien Daily caught up with traditional cuisine artisan Nguyen Thi Xiem during her short stay in Ho Chi Minh City.

One of the 39 artisans to represent Vietnam’s folk culture at the Smithsonian Folk-life Festival in the US last year, the 66-year-old cake maker said since her success in Washington D.C. people assume too much about her.

Last week, for instance, a charity organization approached her to make a major contribution.

“Everybody thinks I have a new life since the trip, that I’m very rich – so rich that I’ve even opened a restaurant named after me in Ho Chi Minh City,” she said.

“But I haven’t been able to pay back my old debt, let alone own a restaurant.”

After the trip, in which she beat representatives from other Asian countries to win first prize in the traditional cuisine category, Xiem has become famous.

From an unknown, who struggled as a traditional cake seller for 45 years in Can Tho City, she is now recognized everywhere, even if she covers her head with a scarf, she said.

Last month, a restaurant owner in HCMC asked to buy her name.

In return, Xiem could work at the restaurant for VND3 million (US$180) a month.

It sounded like a good offer so she accepted.

But she only worked there for a month.

Last week she decided to go home.

“I miss my family very much and won’t go away anymore,” she said.

The victor

The 41st Smithsonian Folk-life Festival, titled “Mekong River: Connecting Cultures,” was held in Washington D.C. from June 27 to July 8, 2007.

It attracted 250 artists, performers, craftsmen, cooks and ritual specialists from countries like Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and the Chinese province of Yunnan.

The Vietnamese delegation sent 11 folk art performances in all, introducing the best of traditional culture and art such as gong music, weaving, and boat making.

Nguyen Thi Xiem won the first prize for her banh xeo (Vietnamese crepes), banh it tran (glutinous rice cakes), banh tet (cylindrical glutinous rice cakes), and other traditional dishes.

Opportunity knocks

Xiem will never forget the 21 days she was away from home to represent Vietnamese culture in Washington D.C.

One day, a culture official dropped by her low-key cake shop, tasted her cakes, was surprised by them, and offered her a ticket to America.

Xiem didn’t want to go because her husband was sick with malaria, but “couldn’t refuse.”

When she was in Hanoi one day before the flight, she unexpectedly received $325 from the government to cover living expenses during the trip.

“So I sent my husband most of the money because he needed it more than me and boarded the plane with $20 in my pocket.” Xiem said.

For four days after arriving in the US, she didn’t receive any news from her husband.

Under pressure

Her concern for her husband, the pressure of the honor of representing her country, and an empty stomach due to poor appetite made her hands shake so violently that she had to grasp the cooking table during the festival.

But she heard good news from home at last – her husband was fine.

“After that, I only thought about the festival and how to win the highest prize for my country.”

She won both the highest prize and Americans’ hearts.

Tasting her dishes once, many visitors came to ask for more.

She also cooked glutinous rice cakes for the Vietnamese delegation who couldn’t get used to American food.

During the festival Xiem ran around so much she lost a sandal.

She didn’t have time to find another pair.

“Everyone kept asking why I didn’t wear shoes,” she recalled with a smile.

Good ambassador to Vietnam

A man also asked if Vietnam was as beautiful as America.

She said, yes, Vietnam is more beautiful than the US and the most beautiful of all are Vietnamese women.

“The man was delighted and invited me to come to his house whenever I’m in the US again.”

After her trip to America, Xiem was recognized as a folk culture artisan by the Vietnamese Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

“What I’d like more than anything, is that next year, Can Tho will build a shop inside the city museum for me to make cakes for local people as they promised,” she said.

Reported by Phuong Anh

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